Fit is the most important part of looking good in your garment. Whether you need to shorten a sleeve or hem your trousers, it is our personal goal to make sure that every customer feels confident that their garment will be repaired and altered to the highest standard. We don’t cut corners and stand by everything we do. If you think something isn’t quite right, it is our guarantee that we will fix it. On average our alteration tailors take around 7 to 14 days to carry out alterations.
Suit Jacket Alterations
Suit Jacket Length
A suit jacket’s length can be altered. However, it cannot be made longer – only shorter. It’s a risky alteration because the spacing of the pockets and button holes cannot be changed and if a jacket is shortened too much, you run the risk of compromising the balance of the garment. Anything more than an inch is probably too much.
Worth the money? Maybe.
Bottom line: Only shorten a suit jacket if the amount it needs to be shortened is relatively minor and will not throw off the jacket’s balance.
The sleeves are the one part of the suit jacket you’re definitely going to need altered. Here are some sleeve alterations to consider.
Lengthen/Shorten. How long should a suit jacket’s sleeve be? The correct length is one that allows 1/2″ to 3/4″ of your shirt cuff to show. Keep in mind that there is a limit to the amount a sleeve can be lengthened – this is a case-by-case call based on the amount of fabric under the cuff or at the top of the sleeve.
Slimmed-Down/Widened. You want the width of your jacket sleeves to be slim, but still allow a comfortable range of motion.
Worth the money? Yes.
Bottom line: A sleeve length or width alteration is money well spent. Keep in mind that there is a significant cost difference depending on whether you have functioning button holes (a.k.a. surgeon’s cuffs) or not.
Chest and Stomach
Take In/Let Out. Without a doubt, one of the key alterations when it comes to having a suit jacket that looks like it was made (or tailored) for you. And it often doesn’t take much, just 1cm on each side for a perfect fit is usually the case. However, like lengthening a jacket sleeve, there is a limit to how much can be let out.
Problem: Lapels don’t lay flat. This is a very common issue and, unfortunately, one that can’t be remedied with tailoring. If you’re having this problem, chances are that you’ve bought a jacket that’s too small. Size up and go from there.
Worth the money? Yes.
Bottom Line: A little goes a long way here when it comes to making a suit jacket look great around your chest, stomach and sides.
Shoulders and Collar
If you’re thinking about shoulder and collar alterations, you’re wading into some very dangerous territory. Not only is it major surgery (and therefore very costly), but there is absolutely no guarantee that they’ll be successful or that the integrity of the jacket will be maintained.
While a suit jacket’s shoulders can technically be extended or reduced, and a collar roll can technically be corrected, it’s expensive and ultimately not worth your tailor’s time (or your possible tears).
Worth the money? Nope.
Bottom Line: If you’re considering alterations that concern the shoulders and collar, the hard truth is that you’ve got the wrong jacket.
Suit Pants Alterations
If there is one alteration everyone should consider, it’s getting your pants hemmed. If you’re accustomed to custom clothing or buying higher quality off the rack garments where the pants are unfinished, chances are you already know your way around this alteration.
Where the pant should break (or not break) is a matter of personal preference. Personally, I prefer my pants to just kiss the top of my shoe with very little to no break at all. We’ve got a guide to pant breaks in the queue, so stay tuned for that.
Worth the money? Always.
Bottom Line: Hemming your pants is a simple and inexpensive alteration that pays big dividends in terms of looking like you’ve put some effort into your wardrobe.
Two things can be done to the waist of your pants: 1) it can be taken in (reduced) or 2) let out (made bigger). The most important thing to remember is that there’s much more room to take the waist in than to let it out. If you look on the inside of your pants you can see how much extra fabric there is at the seam.
Worth the money? Yes.
Bottom Line: An easy alteration that helps out with comfort.
A tapered leg is not for everyone. And the amount of taper should be guided by your body type. Remember, taken as a whole, a suit should look like it is in proportion to itself. So, if you’re a little larger up top, tapering the leg opening to 7″ may not be the best move.
A tapered leg has a very clean look and is necessary if you’re going with the no-break look. However, it shouldn’t be tapered to the point where your pants look painted on. My rule of thumb is that the pants still need to feel comfortable. Take it only as far as this allows.
Tapering a pant’s leg not outrageously expensive, but it costs more than a simple hem or waist alteration.
Worth the money? Depends.
Bottom Line: Get your pant legs tapered only if you are fully committed to the look. Once the alteration is done, there’s no going back.
A pants rise is the distance between the middle of the crotch seam to the top of the waistband. This is a measurement that varies from person to person. Whether you like a low, mid, or high rise is a personal preference and dependent on your body type and style inclinations.
The rise can technically be altered, but it’s tricky and a lot of work as it requires recutting the pants in a major way. It’s not a common alteration like a hem or taking in the waist, but one that is sometimes asked for.
Worth the money? (Or the tailor’s time and effort?) No.
Bottom Line: If you’re unhappy with the rise of a pair of pants, go the tailored route, bring up your rise concerns and we will make sure that we will meet your needs.